I had some apprehension about heading to the end of the Earth, at the bottom of the globe where the nail supports it, to a land covered in 98% ice that has never supported any mammals or humans. Antarctica is the driest highest, cleanest, windiest and coldest of all continents, so cold even the polar bears stay away.

I escorted a group of 31 adventures, my most globally astute group ever. Getting the 7th continent stamped in their passports was on their bucket list. The collective motivation was also the amazing wildlife photography opportunities and we had a few experts among the group. Their passion began to dissolve my trepidation so I adjusted my enthusiasm to go boldly. Packing was my greatest challenge ever with dozens of thermal layers not to exceed 50lbs. December is austral summer with tolerable temps in the 30’s to 40’s. We were circumnavigating the scenic peninsula which the staff calls the “banana belt” for its mild weather. It was however, the winds that can top 100 mph and rough seas that I feared most.

Hurtigruten was an excellent line. They included pre and post cruise days in humid Buenos Aires with a city tour, Tango Show and giant juicy steaks. We then flew 3 hours south to Tiera Del Fuego and spent time enjoying its capital Ushuaia along the shores of the Beagle Channel. I dined on king crab and shopped for gifts of all things penguins.

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